Saturday, April 26, 2014

W.G. Sebald's Austerlitz

W.G. Sebald, Austerlitz (London: Penguin Books, 2002; ET Anthea Bell)

The premise is simple. An unnamed narrator recalls his meetings and conversations, over many years in many places, with Austerlitz, a historian of architecture who has a special interest in railway stations. Austerlitz recalls his life, or rather what he did not remember of his life, and has had to learn from others. As the years advance so does Austerlitz’s knowledge, and he discloses to the narrator, in the piecemeal way in which he has learned it, what he has uncovered about his origins in Europe before World War II and the destiny of his family. Austerlitz does not only relate his journey, he engages with its meaning, exploring the significance of the details of his past and the ways in which he perceives and processes them.

Memory is the major concern of Sebald’s oeuvre, and Austerlitz is an exercise in the recovery of memory. It is a working out of the question he posed in his 1997 poetics lectures in Zürich, later expanded into the essay On The Natural History of Destruction - the voluntary amnesia of the German people concerning their own sufferings in World War II. Austerlitz’s forgetting, or rather the non-practice of memory, has been a deliberate act of resistance; recalling with difficulty a visit to Marienbad in 1972 he ventures, ‘I know that I often lay for hours in the bubbling mineral baths and the rest rooms, which did me good in one way but in another way had weakened the resistance I had put up for so many years against the emergence of memory’ (pp. 300-01).

But memory emerges nevertheless, in response to places, objects, banalities, Proust’s cakecrumbs in a spoonful of tea. Austerlitz comes to know his history not as a series of confrontations with revelation but as a journey of realisation, a becoming aware of sense memories, becoming mindful of images submerged just beyond reach; artefacts whose tactility is so tenuous that recollection, and the expression of it, are inevitably fallible. Austerlitz decides to assemble a book by rewriting old essays and fragments, but is struck by the futility of trying to recapture the immediacy of his original inspiration (p. 171). Language itself fails:

All I could think was that such a sentence only appears to mean something, but in truth is at best a makeshift expedient, a kind of unhealthy growth issuing from our ignorance, something which we use, in the same way as many sea plants and animals use their tentacles, to grope blindly through the darkness enveloping us. The very thing which may usually convey a sense of purposeful intelligence – the exposition of an idea by means of a certain stylistic facility – now seemed to me nothing but an entirely arbitrary or deluded enterprise. (p. 175)

When a visit to a derelict waiting room in Liverpool Street station evokes a significant memory Austerlitz is unable to articulate his reaction: ‘As so often, said Austerlitz, I cannot give any precise description of the state of mind this realization induced; I felt something rending in me, and a sense of shame and sorrow, or perhaps something quite different, something inexpressible because we have no words for it, just as I had no words all those years ago when the two strangers came over to me speaking a language I did not understand.’ (pp. 193-94).

If the apparently concrete medium of language fails us, how reliable is a memory mediated through hearsay? We see a history constructed from memories within memories, transmitted first, second, third hand: ‘From time to time, so Věra recollected, said Austerlitz, Maximilian would tell the tale of how once…’ (p. 237) The narrator tells us what Austerlitz recalled of what Věra recalled of what Maximilian recalled, a chain of increasingly weaker links. How firm can be the identity constructed on such fallibility?

Sebald is a master of the beautifully-constructed sentence. I found myself reading the following over and over:

How happily, said Austerlitz, have I sat over a book in the deepening twilight until I could no longer make out the words and my mind began to wander, and how secure have I felt seated at the desk in my house in the dark night, just watching the tip of my pencil in the lamplight following its shadow, as if of its own accord and with perfect fidelity, while that shadow moved regularly from left to right, line by line, over the ruled paper. (p. 172)

And while writing this piece I have been doing it again. But the joy one derives from examples like this is almost incidental to the overwhelming impression of flow. The narrator records ‘the drift of [Austerlitz’s] ideas and the nature of his observations and comments.’ (p. 170). This discourse does not conveniently fall into conventional patterns of division; it simply streams, from episode to episode without interruption, so that if the reader looks for conventional divisions they will find that the book is composed of only four paragraphs. The sentences have the flow of conversation, and assume the concentration, the aptitude for listening, that one takes (or should take) into these encounters. Sebald’s ability to maintain clarity over a long sentence constructed of many clauses is virtuosic. Several times I found myself getting to the end of a sentence with a sense of surprise and pleasure that he had not let me lose the thread in spite of the interpolations. Try this:

When Austerlitz had brought the tea tray in and was holding slices of white bread on a toasting fork in front of the blue gas flames, I said something about the incomprehensibility of mirror images, to which he replied that he often sat in this room after nightfall, staring at the apparently motionless spot of light reflected out there in the darkness, and when he did so he inevitably thought of a Rembrandt exhibition he had seen once, many years ago, in the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, where he had not felt inclined to linger before any of the large-scale masterpieces which had been reproduced over and over again, but instead stood for a long time looking at a small painting measuring at most nine by twelve inches, from the Dublin collection, as far as he remembered, which according to its label showed the Flight into Egypt, although he could make out neither Mary and Joseph, nor the child Jesus, nor the ass, but only a tiny flicker of fire in the middle of the gleaming black varnish of the darkness which, said Austerlitz, he could see in his mind’s eye to this day. (p 169)

And the most virtuosic is his description of the ghetto created by the Nazis for the Jews in Theresienstadt during the war, a single sentence extending over twelve pages (pp. 331-42). (Take that, Proust!)

Perhaps to overcome the fallibility of language, Sebald illustrates his novels with photographs, maps, diagrams and other graphic material. At first glance I rejected the pictures as an interesting but supplementary exercise. I am accustomed to text, and would rather have a map to place everything in relation than an image to conflict what I already see in my mind. But… Sebald wants us to understand, and because language cannot convey everything, he tries to engage us at a non-linguistic level. Take for instance one of Austerlitz’s discursions on architecture:

Someone, he added, ought to draw up a catalogue of types of buildings, listed in order of size, and it would be immediately obvious that domestic buildings of less than normal size – the little cottage in the fields, the hermitage, the lock-keeper’s lodge, the pavilion for viewing the landscape, the children’s bothy in the garden – are those that offer us at least a semblance of peace, whereas no one in his right mind could truthfully say that he liked a vast edifice such as the Palace of Justice on the old Gallows Hill in Brussels. At first we gaze at it in wonder, a kind of wonder which is in itself a form of dawning horror… (p. 23)

Some pages later, to illustrate its ‘singular monstrosity’, Sebald blesses us with a photograph (p. 35). And I recognised the building, and I remembered seeing it while cruising into Brussels station on the Thalys, and feeling repelled by its Speerian massiveness, and thinking that the graffiti by the railway tracks was far more attractive and that the scaffolding around the tower was an act of grace by the city masters to protect the sensibilities of visitors. And I understood Sebald’s point completely.


Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Birthday dinner at La Jules Verne


I was getting my bloods done two weeks ago when the nurse noted, 'Your fiftieth birthday! Did you do anything special?'

'Oh, went out to dinner.' Pause. 'At the Eiffel Tower.'

I think I did the trip only so I could say lines like that.

No comments, just a couple of pictures and the menu.


From 125 meters up we could see from the Arc de Triomphe, across Concorde and the Louvre to Notre Dame, and to Les Invalides (see above).


The birthday cake - pistachios and wild strawberries.

What we ate:

Champagne:
Lamandier

Mineral water:
Badoit

Amuse-bouches (appetizers):
Gougères, gelée de concombre (parmesan puffs, cucumber jelly)

Entrées:
Homard de nos côtes en Bellevue, sucs de cuisson en sabayon et caviar gold (Bellevue-style local lobster, sabayon and Gold caviar)
Petits artichauts poivrade en barigoule (Roasted and marinated baby artichokes)

Poisson et viande (fish and meat):
Blanc de turbot cuit au four façon Dugléré (Dugléré baked turbot)
Grenadin de veau au sautoir, pommes de terre Anna, vrai jus (Sautéed thick medallion of veal, Anna potatoes, cooking jus)

Desserts:
Moelleux aux pistaches et fraises des bois (Pistachio and wild strawberry soft cake)
L’écrou au chocolat et praliné croustillant, glace noisette (Tower bolt, dark chocolate praliné, hazelnut ice cream)

Best birthday ever.
 

Sunday, July 1, 2012

PT's adventures in Paris

PT at the Tour Eiffel


PT at Notre Dame


PT at the Louvre


PT at the Musee Rodin


PT at Napoleon's Tomb, Les Invalides


PT at the Moulin Rouge


PT at the Arc de Triomphe

Literary Paris

Lovers of literature are prone to bang on a bit about Paris, especially concerning the Lost Generation. I’m with Hemingway; when Gertrude Stein told him he and his colleagues were a ‘lost generation’ he thought she was talking crap. But it’s interesting to see where so many great writers hung out (or should that be ‘hanged out’?) and try to pick up a scent of what inspired them.

I’ve already mentioned the literary significance of our flat, and that near it is Baudelaire’s birthplace in the Place Saint-André des Arts. Just around the corner from us you can pick up a copy of Baudelaire’s Les fleurs du mal at Shakespeare and Company, the bookshop started by George Whitman in 1951 as Le Mistral which attracted many writers of the Beat and earlier eras like Henry Miller.


In the 1960s George renamed the shop after Sylvia Beach’s legendary shop of the interwar years at 12 Rue de l’Odeon (6th arrondissement). It was there that she published James Joyce’s Ulysses, which makes it a must-see on my list. Alas, that building has been completely remodeled and none of the original fabric of the shop exists.


But some of the places where Joyce wrote that book still stand. He wrote the Ithaca and Penelope sections in the latter half of 1921 at 71 Rue de Cardinal Lemoine in the 5th. Around the same time Ernest Hemingway arrived in Paris and spent two years just up the road on the third floor of number 74.



To work off the hunger Hemingway often spent long periods of time walking in the nearby Jardin du Luxembourg, where he would often meet Gertrude Stein walking her dog. Stein lived with Alice B. Toklas on the western side of the Jardin at 27 Rue de Fleurus (6th), where she had a legendary salon for writers and artists until the war.


One of those who attended Stein's salon, and any other party that was going, was F. Scott Fitzgerald, who lived with zany Zelda worlds away in the wealthy 8th arrondissement, at 14 Rue de Tilsitt near the Arc de Triomphe.
Mind you, none of this is a substitute for sitting down and reading their books. Except Gertrude’s - utter rubbish.


Friday, June 29, 2012

Music everywhere

Music is everywhere in Paris. We wake up to the bells of St-Julien-le-Pauvre behind us and of Nôtre Dame just across the Pont au Double. Buskers busk on every corner or every train in the tourist areas, and some of them are good. Wednesday night walking back from the Ile St Louis at 9.45pm a trad jazz group was playing outside the Square Jean XXIII. Last week another group, set up their upright piano and drum kit on the Pont St Louis and played Hot Club de France style. The next day we saw a guy with an upright on the Boul Mich at Cluny, and the following day another on Blv Saint Germain at Place Sartre-Beauvoir. For a while we thought it was the same guy.


Paris is one of the professional musical capitals of the world, so you expect to see a lot of the good stuff (which is one of the reasons we keep coming here). I’ve already commented on Renée Fleming in Arabella at the Bastille, but the week has also seen concerts by a couple of great mezzo-sopranos.

Susan Graham performed at the Théâtre du Chatelet on Saturday 23 June with accompanist Malcolm Martineau. Our seats were front row centre, which is a bot too close for my liking, but it gave the performance an intimacy which it may not have had, even in a place as small as the Chatelet. Graham sang scenes and songs by Purcell, Berlioz, Schubert, Wolf, Duparc and Cole Porter, and Stephen Sondheim’s ‘The Boy From…’, a hilarious parody on ‘The Girl from Ipanema’. In her encores she sang Reynaldo Hahn’s ‘À Chloris’, a song guaranteed to leave me a puddle on the floor, so that was an unexpected bit of magic.


On Tuesday 26 it was the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées to hear Joyce di Donato sing a programme of songs about or inspired by Venice and written by Vivaldi, Rossini, Fauré, Hahn and Head. Joyce sounded more comfortable singing the more florid pieces – coloratura is what she’s best at. In the second half she wore a figure-hugging floor length gown, and if she’d had her hair up in a beehive you’d have sworn it was Dusty Springfield. I wonder how ‘Anyone Who Had a Heart’ would have gone down with that crowd – they loved ‘Over the Rainbow’.


I’ve previously mentioned a piano recital we attended at the church below our flat. On Sunday afternoon we went to another one, Jean-Christophe Millot playing Beethoven (including the Moonlight Sonata) and Chopin (including the Minute Waltz). To hear a Steinway in a small church is a tad scary; the sound fills out every nook and cranny of the building, making the startling bits unnerving even when you expect them.

On Thursday 21 was the Fête de la Musique, an annual event started thirty years ago, in which musicians play free concerts anywhere and everywhere. The official guide listed 240 events for the Paris area alone, and we saw several performances that weren’t listed. As we ate dinner in the flat that night we were serenaded by African drumming, a brass band from across the river, and a rock band from somewhere in the rues below us. Outside the Trois Mailletz around the corner from us in Rue Galande was a trad jazz band, Les Papyfous sont laches (The granddads are on the loose). In the Rue des Prêtres Saint Severin a crowd surrounded an Italian community choir that had distributed song sheets and was calling for requests. A drum band blocked the Rue de la Huchette and deafened everyone, and over in Place Saint Michel a band was playing Allman Brothers style rock. We eventually wound up in Notre Dame listening to an organ recital.




And then there is the everyday music of the tourist quarter, the honking of the traffic, the sirens of the emergency vehicles and the drunken chanting of pisshead soccer fans on the river boats. The other night we had a very good saxophonist busking for a couple of hours in a square nearby; quite an improvement on the usual ambient sound.

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Eugène Atget/Paris, Musée Carnavalet



Walking through the Marais in the rain this morning I kept seeing things I want to photograph, buildings, details, lines. So it was appropriate that we were going to see an exhibition of Eugène Atget, one of my favourite photographers. He photographed Paris from the 1890s through to the 1920s, seeing himself as a documenter of a changing city rather than an artist making pretty images.

I love Atget because he thinks the same way I do – he sees the same images and takes the same photos, in some cases literally, because we came across a photo very much like a shot I took this morning at Saint Severin. Whether he has influenced me or it’s just coincidence I don’t know, but I enjoy his photos very much. Another level of enjoyment comes from knowing many of the places he photographed, although they have changed very much over the last century. Or maybe it’s because they have changed… The exhibition is coming to the Art Gallery of New South Wales later this year, so I can see it again.

The Musée Carnavalet is dedicated to the history of Paris, and it has a great collection. But it’s a nightmare to navigate your way – it’s difficult to orient yourself, the signage is inadequate, and the maps are actually puzzles developed for the Mensa entrance test. And by the time you get to the gallery where you want to go, you find it’s closed for the lunch break. Just because of the size I would recommend more than one visit if you want to see it properly; the layout and ad hoc closures make that a necessity.

Here’s a picture of a toy guillotine. Kids in revolutionary Paris had the coolest toys.


La Caféothèque


The state of coffee in France today is like that of the phone system a quarter of a century ago: one of the worst in Europe. So a place like La Caféothèque, near the Hôtel de Ville, is a relief as well as a pleasure. It’s an artisan café, much like the artisan boulangeries you see everywhere in Paris, but with a mission to educate people about real coffee. They talk about terroir; could I describe it better than by saying that?  It’s a connoisseur’s café, where you get a glass of water to cleanse the palate before the coffee and a chocolate to sweeten it afterwards, and the only food on the menu is croissants and some other viennoiserie. This morning the café de jour was Plantation Chitul-Tirol from Guatemala, full-bodied, sweet, a little acidy. The barista gave me a second espresso because the first wasn’t quite right – the second had the same flavours, only more intensely. Nom.